Adapted from The Essential New York Times Cookbook. This recipe was originally printed in 1998: "Food: Pit Stops," by Molly O'Neill, based on a recipe adapted from The Barbecue Bible, by Steven Raichlen. I used a lot less cayenne pepper than the tablespoon called for in the original recipe. I left the skin on during the marinating/cooking process to keep the chicken moist, but removed it before serving. This was delicious served with Indian Lemon Rice and Spinach Thoran.
Toast the coriander seeds, peppercorns, and cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium heat until fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Transfer to a coffee grinder or mortar and pestle and grind to a fine powder.
Combine the ground spices, garlic, ginger, oil, water, cayenne, lemon juice and salt in a blender and puree. Transfer to a large bowl and toss in the chicken and cilantro. Mix well, making sure all chicken pieces are covered with the marinade.
Marinade for at least 4 hours (the longer the better).
Grill chicken or broil until done.
Combine cilantro, garlic, hot pepper, walnuts, lemon juice, cumin, salt, pepper and water in a blender; puree until smooth.
Scatter onions, lemons, limes and cilantro leaves on top of chicken.
Serve with Cilantro Sauce.